How Do I Care For Newborn Rabbits?

“I recently started raising rabbits in my backyard farm, and to my surprise, one of my does just had her first litter of kits! They’re so tiny and fragile that I’m a bit worried I won’t be able to care for them properly. I’m especially concerned because the mother seems a little overwhelmed and is spending a lot of time away from the nest. What should I do to ensure the newborn rabbits thrive and stay healthy? Any tips for helping the mother as well?” Thanks, Kathleen, Melbourne, Australia.

How to Care for Newborn Rabbits on Your Backyard Farm

First off, Kathleen, congratulations on the new additions to your backyard farm! Newborn rabbits, or kits, can be quite a joy to have around, but their early days require careful attention and specific care to ensure they thrive. It’s entirely understandable to feel both excited and a little apprehensive—those tiny creatures depend on you for their survival and well-being.

Let’s break down all the key factors you should consider when caring for these newborns, from the first signs of birth to the moment they venture out of the nest. We’ll tackle everything from checking on their health and assisting the mother to troubleshooting common issues and planning for their future care.

1. Understanding Rabbit Birth and the First Days

The first step in caring for your newborn rabbits is to understand the birth process itself. When a doe gives birth, it’s known as “kindling,” and it usually occurs at night or in the early morning hours. The event is quite quick, often taking only 10 to 15 minutes, and most of the time, the mother handles everything on her own.

However, keeping a close eye on the situation can help you be prepared if an issue arises.

• Nesting Behavior: Before kindling, a doe will typically begin nesting by pulling fur from her body to create a warm, insulated environment for the kits. This usually happens a day before birth. If you notice that the nest is not well-prepared, it might be necessary to step in and add extra hay or straw to make it more comfortable.
• Litter Size and Birth Time: A typical litter will contain anywhere from 4 to 12 kits, though this can vary. It’s important to give the mother some space during kindling. Stress can cause complications, so try not to hover or interrupt her unless absolutely necessary.

2. Checking the Kits Immediately After Birth

Kathleen, one of your first tasks after the birth should be to check on the kits to ensure they are all healthy and properly cared for by the doe. This critical step can help nip potential problems in the bud.

• Counting the Kits: Gently count the number of kits in the nest to ensure none are missed or left out. Occasionally, a kit may be born outside the nest box. These stragglers can become too cold and may not survive, so it’s important to place them back in the nest immediately.
• Health Check: Look for signs that any kit is struggling. They should be wriggling and appear round from being well-fed. Cold, listless kits are a sign of trouble. You may need to gently warm these kits in your hands or using a warm water bottle before placing them back into the nest.
• Removing Deceased Kits: If you find any kits that have not survived the birth, it’s essential to remove them from the nest. These can attract pests or lead to unwanted bacteria building up in the nest, putting the other kits at risk.

3. Assessing and Assisting the Mother

Now that the newborns are here, next is ensuring the mother is prepared to care for them. You mentioned that she seems a bit overwhelmed and is spending a lot of time away from the nest. This can be concerning, but it’s not uncommon for new mothers, particularly if it’s their first litter.

Here are some things to keep in mind:

• Feeding Behavior: Does typically feed their kits only once or twice a day, usually in the early mornings and late evenings. They may spend the day away from the nest to avoid attracting predators (even in your backyard’s safe environment, this instinct persists). However, if the kits aren’t gaining weight, this could indicate a problem.
• Supplemental Feeding: If the mother continues to avoid the nest or does not seem to be feeding her kits, you may need to step in with a supplement. You can use a kitten milk replacer as a temporary measure, using a small feeding syringe to feed the kits individually. It’s labor-intensive, but it could save their lives.
• Ensure the Doe’s Comfort: Sometimes the nest might be too cold or uncomfortable, causing the mother to stay away. Make sure the nest is in a quiet, warm location. You can also add additional bedding if you think she’s avoiding the nest due to discomfort.

4. Maintaining the Nesting Box

The nesting box is your kits’ first home, and it plays a crucial role in their early days. Maintaining this space properly is essential to ensure they stay warm, dry, and safe.

• Size and Placement: Make sure the nesting box is appropriately sized for the doe and her litter. It should be small enough to retain heat but large enough to allow both the mother and kits to move comfortably.
• Bedding Material: Keep the bedding clean and dry. Usually, the doe will keep the nest tidy, but after the first few days, you might need to remove any soiled or damp material and replace it with fresh bedding. Straw, hay, or shredded paper are all great options.
• Temperature Control: Maintaining a warm environment is critical. Cold temperatures can be fatal for newborns. In Melbourne, it may get chilly at night, so consider placing the nest in a well-sheltered area or using a low-wattage heat lamp a safe distance from the nest for added warmth.

5. Feeding and Nutrition

Proper nutrition is the backbone of your kits’ growth and survival. A mother’s milk is the best and most natural food source, providing all the essential nutrients needed. However, since you’re concerned about her spending time away from the nest, monitoring the kits’ eating habits will be particularly important.

You’ll want to track the following nutritional aspects:

• Frequency of Feeding: As mentioned earlier, a doe typically feeds her kits once or twice daily. Make sure the kits appear full afterward. They should have round bellies—a sure sign they’ve had enough to eat.
• Sufficient Lactation: Sometimes, you’ll need to ensure the mother’s milk supply is sufficient. You can provide her with additional high-calorie foods such as leafy greens or alfalfa hay to boost her milk production.
• Supplementary Foods: As the kits grow and open their eyes around 10 days old, you can gradually introduce them to solid foods. Begin with small amounts of hay and fresh greens, but avoid too many sugary vegetables like carrots early on as they can upset their digestive systems.

If the kits are feeding well from the mother, they generally don’t need any supplemental nutrition until they start weaning. But if you suspect the doe isn’t producing enough milk or avoids feeding them as you mentioned, consider supplementing their diet early on.

6. Common Issues and Troubleshooting

As with any new life, challenges can arise, which might need your quick thinking and intervention. Knowing what to watch out for will help you keep your kits healthy and strong.

Here are some of the more common concerns that could pop up:

• Splayed Legs: Newborn kits sometimes suffer from splayed legs due to slippery surfaces in the nest box. Make sure your bedding material is firm but soft, providing enough traction.
• Runts: If there’s a notably smaller kit in the litter, it might struggle to compete for milk. You can assist by holding the mother and allowing the runt to nurse first or by providing supplemental feedings.
• Fever in the Mother: A doe that develops a fever or appears lethargic may have a uterine infection (metritis) or mastitis, an inflammation of the mammary glands. These conditions require immediate veterinary attention to ensure both the mother’s and the kits’ survival.
• Dehydration: If the mother’s milk supply is inadequate, the kits may become dehydrated. Watch for signs like sunken eyes or dry, dark urine spots in the bedding. If you see these, supplement their diet with small amounts of water-fed through a syringe or bottle.

The key is to monitor all the rabbits closely, particularly during these early weeks. Catching issues early will greatly improve the outcomes for both the kits and the mother.

7. The Weaning Process

Weaning is the next big milestone in the lives of your kits. It’s the process of transitioning them from milk to solid foods, and it usually begins around three to four weeks of age. However, the timing can vary depending on the health of both the kits and the mother.

• Introducing Solid Foods: As the kits approach three weeks old, you’ll want to start providing small amounts of hay, pelleted food, and fresh greens. Watch how they respond and increase the amounts gradually. At this point, they may also start to drink from a water bottle, though some will drink from a dish.
• Duration of Weaning: The process should take about two weeks, during which the kits will slowly reduce, then stop their milk intake. Kathleen, during this time, monitor their weight and make sure they’re adjusting well.
• Socialization: The weaning period is an excellent time to socialize the young rabbits. Handle them gently, allowing them to get used to human touch so they grow up to be calm and friendly.

8. Final Steps: Preparing for Independence

At about 7 to 8 weeks of age, your kits will be fully weaned and starting to explore their world independently. This is both an exciting and nerve-wracking time, as it marks the transition from newborn care to young rabbit care.

Here’s what you should keep in mind during this stage:

• Separate Housing: As the kits grow, you’ll need to think about their future housing. Males and females should be separated by about 12 weeks old to prevent unwanted pregnancies. If you plan to keep them all, ensure you have adequate space to house the growing rabbits separately.
• Health Monitoring: Continue to monitor the kits for any signs of illness or distress. Now that they’re eating solid foods, beware of common digestive issues such as GI stasis. Provide plenty of hay to keep their digestive systems in good working order.
• Play and Exercise Areas: As the kits develop, they’ll need more room to hop around and exercise. Create safe, fenced areas where they can explore and socialize. Just ensure they remain supervised since young rabbits can be mischievous and might find ways to escape or get into trouble.

Final Thoughts…

Kathleen, it sounds like your heart is in the right place, and you’re well on your way to raising healthy, happy rabbits. Just remember, the early days are the most critical. By keeping a close eye on the kits and providing support to the mother, you’re setting the stage for them to grow into strong adults.

Thank you for your question, and don’t hesitate to reach out again if you find yourself with more worries or need advice further down the line. Happy farming, and enjoy watching those little fur balls grow!